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About Hair Color
Hair Color – An Explanation
The Structure of Hair
Human hair in good condition is surprisingly strong - one hair can hold the weight of a chicken’s egg.
It is a hard, fibrous substance. We have to be very careful how we treat it because, unlike skin, it is not alive and cannot repair itself. Therefore, we need to correctly maintain its balance of protein and moisture to keep it in good condition.
The percentage of protein in hair is between 83% and 87%. The percentage of moisture is about 3%. The balance is made up of sugar, salt and trace elements. If this essential balance is maintained, the hair will stay healthy and strong. It will be in good manageable condition, soft to the touch and with a natural shine.
The outer structure of the hair shaft consists of a collection of transparent layers of interlocking scales, which are collectively known as the cuticle. Most people have from 7 to 11 of these transparent layers all wrapped around the delicate inner part.
The delicate inner part of the hair shaft consists of a collection
of spring like fibers that are coiled around each other and suspended
in a glutinous material known as a fatty acid. This is where the
moisture and hard and soft proteins are found.
Coloring Hair
There are 2 methods to color hair:
1. Use a semi–permanent color such as Changes by Tints of Nature. This method deposits color temporarily onto the cuticle or outer structure of the hair. It could be compared to wrapping colored cellophane around a light bulb. The light bulb doesn’t change - it picks up its color from the cellophane. When used in conjunction with Herb UK shampoos and conditioners, the color should last for eight to ten washes.
2. Use a permanent color such as Tints of Nature. For this method to be effective we have to open the cuticle and allow the permanent color through to the inner part of the hair. The only way to do this is to temporarily raise the pH of the hair. The resulting color will be seen through the transparent cuticle and, if the hair is properly cared for, should last until it grows out.
pH Balance
• This is a measure of acidity and alkalinity; • It ranges from 0 (highly acidic) to 14 (highly alkaline); • 7 is neutral – pure water; • The ideal balanced pH level for our hair is between 4.5 and 5.5 and is known as its isometric point; • Above 5.5 the hair cuticle starts to open and below 4.5 it starts to contract; • For a permanent hair color to work the hair cuticle needs to be opened by raising the pH of the hair above its isometric point; • After coloring, to maintain good condition of the hair, the hair cuticle needs to be closed by lowering the pH back down to its isometric point. |
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There are 2 methods to open the cuticle: The first is to suspend the hair in a harsh and highly alkaline substance like ammonia. This quickly raises the pH of the hair well beyond its normal value to about 11 or higher and causes it to swell considerably. It is effective for coloring purposes but has many side effects including damage to the hair, and difficulty in returning it to its ideal pH level. The second and more natural method, as used by Tints of Nature, is to suspend the hair in a substance called ethanolamine which is derived from coconut and acts as a gentle pH adjuster and moisturizer. It softens the cuticle and, because it only raises the pH of the hair to about 9.5, causes it to open slowly rather than to rapidly swell up. Once coloring is completed the cuticle should be closed down again and the hair returned to its normal pH level by using the shampoo and conditioner supplied with the color. No damage is done to the hair. |
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No harsh ammonia or ammonia substitutes plus no resorcinol,
nonoxynol or parabens:
Helps to ensure damage free results;
Maintains the hair’s natural moisture and protein balance;
Means no dangerous ammonia gas to inhale - smells pleasant to use.
Contains certified organic ingredients:
Ingredients are more active within the formulation;
Their inclusion confirms our commitment to produce products that
are as pure and natural as possible, while still retaining full
effectiveness.
Does not take the hair as far from its isometric point as many
hair colors:
Makes it possible, by use of the supplied shampoo and conditioner,
to close down the cuticle and return the hair to its ideal pH level.
Uses extra mild, low odor pharmaceutical grade peroxide:
Extra stable;
Gives the hair a natural feel and shine;
Minimizes the possibility of damage to the hair or irritation to
the skin.
Has the lowest possible percentage of
PPD’s:
Reduces the risk of allergic reaction and possible chemical build
up, while gently covering grey hair;
Leaves little or no staining on the skin.
Uses a naturally derived soy base:
Is a cleaner, less harmful alternative to the more chemically based
formulas used by many other hair color companies.